Saturday, March 12, 2011

Regent's Canal

Riding the Bakerloo line today, I discovered that all service was suspended south of Paddington. A perfect opportunity to start on the Regent's Canal, where I left off yesterday! So, leaving the station I backtracked to Little Venice.
And I was glad I did- the weather was amazing.

Here's the map, east to west again:
From Little Venice, over the top of Regent's Park and London Zoo, and ending at Lock 17 in Camden.



I didn't walk anything near the whole length of the canal. Although I started at the beginning, near Paddington, it actually goes all the way across north London and swings south to Docklands, where it meets up with the River Thames at the Limehouse lock. As I was actually on my way to do work, I had to at least pretend the canal was taking me there, so I decided only to go as far Euston.

Here's where I started, in Little Venice:




After the bridge is a long private mooring where there are dozens of houseboats doubled-docked. They show the interesting priorities of canal life: wifi antennas, Buddha carvings, stained glass, solar panels, herb gardens, bicycles, propane stoves.

At the far end, the tunnel under Maida hill.
On days with good canal traffic, its probably an amazing cafe.

The tunnel runs for a few hundred feet under this road (and under the former lodge of one of the Second World War's "dambusters"):

Totally inviting.
The canal then emerges at the far side of Maida hill, cut fairly deep.





After another short tunnel came a charming public mooring, probably the most characterful fleet of houseboats yet. 



Lots of weeping willows, bridges, and strollers on this towpath-
-and plenty of abandoned industry.
Then came the section running up to and over Regent's Park. Before the park, the south bank was all mansions and CCTV. But very pretty.





Right after this is the Macclesfield Bridge, which apparently was destroyed in 1874 when a barge passing under it loaded with powder exploded. I guess it was rebuilt or salvaged, but it took on the name "blow up bridge."
The traffic now is more pensioners, less powder.


Then the Park, and the London Zoo.

The canal then comes to a sort of cul-de-sac, and makes an abrupt turn north. Sitting at the end is the Feng Shang, a Chinese restaurant. 

So many great iron bridges.

The Feng Shang's goofiness can be forgiven if it turns out to actually be mobile. I'd like to see it go by at night.

After the turn, there's a stretch of the canal which is exceedingly nice, where backyards and patio-docks line the east bank and houseboats the west.



Probably my favorite stretch thus far.
After this bridge, the kitsch started to take over as I neared the lock complex in Camden.
Not really sure what to say about this one.

Getting all waterfront revival again.
The old infrastructure, still visible underneath.

It got really schlocky and full of pushy Euro-tourist crowds so I decided to branch off for the Camden Town tube, leaving the rest of Regent's Canal for another day. This was, incidentally, the first lock I encountered since I started this tour in Willesden, meaning that the canal's level is maintained over at least five miles. England isn't renowned for its topography, but that's still a pretty impressive feat of engineering for an age without altimeters. 

1 comment:

  1. Wow---now I'm wishing I was in London again! I hadn't realized there was such an extensive canal system right in the city although we'd seen them many other places in England. I love your photography. Thought that Feng Shang's goofiness was charming and noticed once agan what a nice touch colorful kayaks add. Other bonuses: the Peake-equivalent, Newtown's painting for the historical perspective, and water-tower living. But most of all the ability to have a wonderful "walk" without having to fly to London. Thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete